Unbox the X1C Chamber Heater

X1C Chamber Heater Unbox & Install: MartilloTech Active Heating & Purification Kit for Bambu Lab X1 Carbon

Written by: RC East

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Published on

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Time to read 9 min

What’s up guys, welcome back to the channel! Today we’re tackling some long-overdue printer maintenance and a massive upgrade for my workhorse Bambu Lab X1 Carbon printers. Let’s be real—I’ve been slacking on caring for these X1Cs ever since I got my H series machines, but they still run nonstop. So today, we’re leveling them up with the MartilloTech X1C Chamber Heater—the active bed chamber heating and purification kit that’s supposed to fix all my warping woes with PETG and ABS (and let’s face it, I hammer ABS prints out daily). We’re doing a full unbox, step-by-step install, and first test—no shortcuts, no skipping the tricky parts. Let’s dive in!

RC East

RC EAST

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Unboxing the MartilloTech X1C Chamber Heater: First Impressions

Right out the gate, this X1C Chamber Heater kit looks awesome—build quality is immediately apparent, even if I’m not 100% sure what the main unit is made of (I’ll check the paperwork later, no biggie). Here’s everything you get in the box, and it’s all you need for a complete X1C install—no extra parts to buy:

X1C  with the Heater
  • Core active heating/purification unit (custom-molded for the X1C, so it’s a perfect fit)
  • Activated carbon filter cartridge (for VOC and odor control)
  • Two E11 HEPA filters (had to Google the specs, but they’re built for print dust and fine particles)
  • Full set of X1C-specific mounting hardware: screws, nuts, and washers (pre-sorted for easy use)
  • Integrated temperature sensor and infrared print detection sensor (key for auto mode!)
  • Installation instructions (we’ll still break down the hidden hacks, though)

Quick side note: I already have external ventilation on my X1Cs—pumping fumes straight outside is still the best way to keep air quality in check. But this kit’s dual HEPA + carbon filtration is a killer bonus for anyone printing in a closed room. Every little bit helps, and the switches, sensors, and wiring on this X1C Chamber Heater look super well-thought-out—MartilloTech clearly designed this for the X1C’s exact needs.

Step-by-Step X1C Chamber Heater Install (The Real Deal, No Skipping)

First and foremost—safety first for this X1C mod! Fire up your X1C, home all axes, and lower the heat bed all the way down (until it squeaks, honestly). This frees up maximum space for the install, and it’s the first step the instructions stress for a reason. Once the bed’s down, power off completely: flip the back switch, unplug the cord—never work on live wiring. Now let’s install this X1C Chamber Heater properly.

Step 1: Route the Power Cord (The Trickiest Part—Here’s the Hack!)

The instructions say to slide the X1C Chamber Heater power cord through the X1C’s chassis slot, but let me tell you—this is a nightmare if you do it the basic way. I fought with it for minutes before finding two game-changing fixes:

  1. Grab a pokey tool or needle-nose pliers to guide the cord through the narrow slot (your fingers won’t fit, trust me).
  2. Dab a little grease (from the X1C’s linear shafts/rails) on the cord—this cuts friction and lets it slide through smooth.

BIGGEST PRO TIP: I learned this after struggling—remove the X1C’s side panel first (it’s required to mount the heater anyway!). With the side panel off, feeding the X1C Chamber Heater cord through the chassis is effortless. Save yourself the headache and do this first!

Step 2: Rear Panel, Fan & Wiring Prep

For speed, I’ll gloss over rear panel removal (it’s just 14 screws—label them 1-14 if you’re nervous about resetting them!), but here’s the critical wiring step for the X1C Chamber Heater:

  1. Loosen the four screws holding the X1C’s rear exhaust fan, then push the fan back slightly (no need to fully remove it) to create a gap.
  2. Feed the X1C Chamber Heater power cord down through the fan/chassis gap, then tuck it into the X1C’s internal wire clips. This keeps the cord away from moving parts and hot components—no tangles, no damage.
  3. Leave a little extra slack in the cord for now (we’ll tidy it up later)—better safe than sorry with electrical wiring.
Fan and Wiring prep

Step 3: Wire the X1C Chamber Heater to the Control Board

This is the only electrical connection, and it’s straightforward—if you take your time. The X1C Chamber Heater uses color-coded wiring, so zero guesswork for X1C owners:

  1. Pop off the protective cover on the X1C’s voltage regulator/control board to expose the terminal blocks.
  2. Connect the wires blue first, brown second—the kit’s wires match the X1C’s board perfectly.
  3. Tighten the terminal screws snug—but don’t overtighten! You don’t want to strip the screws or damage the board (I used a cheap screwdriver here because I didn’t want to walk outside in the cold for my good one—don’t be me, use a precision screwdriver).
  4. Double-check the connections (I always verify twice—it’s a habit!) and snap the protective cover back on to shield the wiring.
Wire the X1C chamber heater

Step 4: Mount the MartilloTech X1C Chamber Heater (X1C-Specific Side Panel Step)

This is where the X1C install differs from the P1S—you must remove the X1C’s right-side panel (facing the printer) to mount the heater:

  1. Remove the four mounting screws on the X1C’s right-side panel, then pull back the two plastic tabs on the front edge. Gently pop the panel off—it comes right out once everything’s loose.
  2. Grab the X1C-specific screw and two nuts from the X1C Chamber Heater kit, then feed the screw through the X1C’s chassis mount point.
  3. Use a nut driver (I used my trusty RC tools—perfect for small hardware!) to secure the nut on the other side, then tighten it down snug as a bug. This mount is rock solid—no extra tape or adhesive needed; the X1C Chamber Heater won’t move an inch.
  4. Snap the side panel back onto the X1C and reinsert all four screws—done with the main mount!

Step 5: Install the X1C Chamber Heater Filtration System

The filtration setup for the X1C Chamber Heater is quick and mess-free (if you follow this tip):

  1. Pull out the carbon filter drawer on the MartilloTech unit.
  2. Pour the included activated carbon beads into the drawer—use a funnel! This avoids spilling beads all over your X1C’s interior (trust me, it’s a lifesaver).
  3. Shake the drawer gently to settle the beads and knock out fine dust—you don’t want dust getting into the X1C Chamber Heater’s fan.
  4. Slide the carbon drawer back in, then click the two E11 HEPA filters into place on the unit. Make sure they’re fully seated—no air leakage means better filtration.
Install the X1C Chamber Heater Filtration

Step 6: Reassemble Your X1C

Put everything back together to finish the X1C Chamber Heater install: reattach the rear panel (use your numbered screws!), screw in the waste bin/trash shoot, and tidy up any loose wiring. That’s it—your first X1C is upgraded! I repeated the exact same steps for my second “blue” X1C, and it went twice as fast with the first install under my belt (no need to watch the whole process again for the second one).

First Test: Firing Up the MartilloTech X1C Chamber Heater

I couldn’t wait to test this X1C Chamber Heater out, so I plugged the X1C back in, flipped the power switch, and fired it up—instant, powerful heat. Let’s break down the controls and real-world performance from our cold print room test:

Controls & Modes (Simple for X1C Users)

  • Auto/Manual Switch: On the side of the X1C Chamber Heater—we tested manual mode first to dial in temps.
  • Temperature Settings: A small blue button toggles between 40°C (104°F), 45°C (113°F), and 60°C (140°F) (the sweet spots for X1C printing). I set it to 45°C (113°F) for testing—perfect for PLA/PETG and great for ABS in cold rooms.
  • Status Lights: Super intuitive—white = power on, red = heater active, yellow = infrared sensor detecting X1C print head movement (auto mode).

Heating Performance (It’s a Game-Changer for X1C)

We tested this in a freezing print room (no extra heaters, just the X1Cs), and the X1C Chamber Heater held 45°C (113°F) rock solid—zero fluctuations, no cold spots. It even heated up the entire room a little (a nice bonus, since I never run heaters in here with the printers running). Auto mode works flawlessly too: the infrared sensor picks up the X1C’s print head moving and kicks the heater on automatically, then shuts off when the print stops—zero wasted energy.

the screen of the Bambu Lab X1C

Quick Note for Silicone Diaper Users

If you have a BIQU silicone diaper (or any bottom insulation mat) on your X1C’s heat bed, you’ll need to cut it to fit around the X1C Chamber Heater. Mine fit perfectly after a quick trim, or you can remove the mat entirely if you don’t want to cut it.

Bonus Temp Readouts from the X1C Dashboard

After firing up both upgraded X1Cs, I checked the printer’s built-in dashboard for real-time temp stats—and the results were impressive:

  • My “blue X1C”: Chamber held a steady 45°C (113°F), heat bed sat at 55°C (131°F) and nozzle/extruder at 57°C (134.6°F)—all with the printer not even actively printing.
  • My “green X1C” (with a modified BIQU silicone diaper): Chamber also locked in at 45°C (113°F), heat bed at 55°C (131°F), and nozzle/extruder at 58°C (136.4°F)—slightly warmer, thanks to the insulation mat tweak.

No fans running, no extra heat sources—just the MartilloTech X1C Chamber Heater keeping temps consistent across the board.

Final Thoughts on the MartilloTech X1C Chamber Heater

This X1C Chamber Heater install took a little time, but it’s 100% worth it for any X1C owner printing ABS/PETG or chasing better print consistency. MartilloTech’s kit fixes the X1C’s biggest flaw—no built-in active chamber heating—and adds dual filtration to boot. Here’s the quick breakdown for X1C users:

  • ✅ Pros: Perfect X1C fit, solid build quality, all hardware included, color-coded wiring (foolproof for X1C), instant/consistent heat for 40°C (104°F) to 60°C (140°F), auto/manual modes, HEPA + carbon filtration.
  • ❌ Cons: Initial cord routing is a pain (easily fixed with the side panel hack), requires small tools (nut driver, pokey tool) for tricky steps.

On filtration: I already have external venting, so I can’t speak to closed-room fume control—but the HEPA + carbon setup can’t hurt, and it’s a must-have for X1C users without external ventilation. Replacement filters and carbon beads are easy to source too, you can purchase the Fnatr system if you need a better ventilation.

These X1Cs might be “retro” next to the H series, but they’re still fast, reliable workhorses. The MartilloTech X1C Chamber Heater brings them up to par with newer models by eliminating warping and adding precise temperature control from 40°C (104°F) all the way up to 60°C (140°F)—exactly what you need for trouble-free ABS and PETG prints, even in a cold shop. I can’t wait to run ABS and PETG test prints, and I’ll post a long-term follow-up (filter life, heater stability, print quality results) soon.

Wrapping Up

If you’re a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon owner hunting for the best X1C Chamber Heater upgrade, the MartilloTech Active Heating & Purification Kit is the clear winner. It’s designed for the X1C, easy to install (once you know the hacks), and the performance speaks for itself—rock-solid temp control from 40°C (104°F) to 60°C (140°F) and built-in filtration make it a no-brainer mod.

Thanks for reading, guys! Follow along for more Bambu Lab Printer updates, 3D printing upgrades, and test prints—I’ve got tons of new content coming. Until next time, happy printing with your upgraded X1C!